Preparation Steps

• Prep the base: Finely chop the onion, carrots, and celery (soffritto). In a bowl, crush the tomatoes by hand with their juices. Grate the cheese and set aside.
• Slow-sweat the soffritto: In a large Dutch oven, warm the olive oil and half the butter over medium-low heat. Add onion, carrot, and celery with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until very soft and sweet but not browned, 8–10 minutes.
• Render pancetta: Push the vegetables to one side. Add the pancetta and the remaining butter to the cleared space and raise heat to medium. Cook until the fat renders and edges turn golden, 4–5 minutes, then fold into the vegetables.
• Brown the meats thoroughly: Add the beef and pork with a pinch of salt and black pepper. Cook over medium-high heat, breaking the meat up, until all moisture cooks off and the meat takes on some caramelized bits, 12–15 minutes.
• Toast paste, then deglaze: Make a well in the center and add the tomato paste. Cook, stirring, until it darkens slightly, 2–3 minutes. Pour in the wine and scrape up any browned bits; simmer until mostly reduced, about 5 minutes.
• Build the ragù and simmer: Stir in the crushed tomatoes, 1/2 cup stock, the Parmigiano rind, bay leaf (if using), a pinch of nutmeg, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce to the barest simmer. Partially cover and cook 3 to 3 1/2 hours, stirring every 30 minutes; add splashes of stock as needed to maintain a loose, saucy consistency.
• Finish with milk in two additions: Stir in half the milk about 1 hour before the end of simmering. Add the remaining milk during the final 15–20 minutes and simmer uncovered to meld. Remove the bay leaf and cheese rind. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
• Let the sauce rest: Turn off the heat and rest the ragù, covered, for 10 minutes so the flavors settle.
• Cook the pasta: Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Cook pappardelle until al dente per package directions. Reserve 1 cup pasta water and drain.
• Toss and serve: Return pasta to the pot. Add 3–4 cups ragù (or enough to generously coat), a splash of pasta water, and the grated Parmigiano. Toss over low heat 1–2 minutes until glossy, adding more pasta water as needed. Plate and finish with extra cheese and black pepper.