Heat oven to 345°F. Line two 8×4-inch loaf pans with parchment, leaving overhang for easy lifting, and lightly grease the parchment.
In a small bowl, stir together the cinnamon and 1/2 cup sugar for the swirl; set aside.
Whisk the dry ingredients: flour, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg in a medium bowl until evenly combined.
In a large bowl with a hand mixer or stand mixer, cream the softened butter with 1 3/4 cups granulated sugar and 1/4 cup brown sugar on medium-high until very light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, scraping the bowl once or twice.
Beat in the eggs one at a time on medium speed until fully incorporated and glossy, 30 seconds each.
On low speed, add the dry ingredients in three additions, alternating with the buttermilk in two additions, beginning and ending with the dry. Mix just until the flour streaks disappear; do not overmix.
Let the batter rest 10 minutes to hydrate the flour for a softer crumb.
Divide about two-thirds of the batter between the pans and level the tops. Evenly sprinkle about two-thirds of the cinnamon-sugar over the batter. Spoon the remaining batter on top, then finish with the remaining cinnamon-sugar. Use a butter knife to make two gentle figure-eight passes through each loaf to marble the layers.
Bake 50 to 60 minutes, rotating pans halfway. Loaves are done when a toothpick inserted near the center comes out with a few moist crumbs or the internal temperature reads 202–205°F. Tip: If the tops are browning too quickly, tent loosely with foil at the 40-minute mark.
Cool in pans on a rack for 15 minutes, then lift out using the parchment and cool completely before slicing for the cleanest swirls.